There is just something about a lighthouse. The tall, stately tower rising from among sand dunes or atop a rocky cliff evokes the majesty of a medieval castle. Its silhouette provides a romantic backdrop to an evening walk on the beach, and the often stark colors of black, white and red add a joyful air to an afternoon playing in the surf.
Its solitary light pierces the darkness above white-tipped waves to bring a sense of comfort and peace that has almost religious overtones. Indeed, the lighthouse is sometimes used as an image by churches and other groups who seek to provide enlightenment and guidance through life’s stormy seas.
A lighthouse without a light can be said to be useless but there is one lighthouse nearby that proves that adage wrong.
The Morris Island Lighthouse near Charleston is but a darkened ruin of its former self, yet it attracts visitors and beachgoers by the thousands each year and seems to be enjoying a new purpose long after time and tide have rendered it dark.
Standing in the sea just off the tip of Folly Island and the entrance to Charleston Harbor, it is a building that should not be. Built in 1876 as a crown of navigation for Charleston — a city ravaged by four years of Civil War and a booming coastal shipping trade — this 150-foot brick tower was intended to serve for generations.
In a little over fifty years, erosion from new jetties at the harbor and the aggressive sea had waves lapping at the base. By 1938, it could no longer be manned, and in 1962, the tower was decommissioned and abandoned.
Now, new forms of navigation and a tall light on nearby Sullivan’s Island make it seem easy to forget the old tower. Over the decades, the lighthouse has slowly crumbled into the sea. Robbed of its light and even the tower glass, it began to lean and all who saw it assumed that soon it would be a pile of broken rubble.
But there can be beauty in defeat.
The Morris Island Lighthouse was abandoned but not forgotten.
From its place just off the beach near the busy summer community of Folly Island, visitors could still see it and enjoy its valiant efforts as if the lighthouse still remembered its former glory. Local groups and non-profits began efforts to “save the light” and over the years money has been raised to at least keep it from tipping into the sea.
Now, when you visit the light you can drive to the north end of Folly Island along Ashley Ave where you can park and walk a half mile to view the light from the beach at the entrance to Folly Creek. The abandoned land at this end of the island is now a Charleston County park, making access as easy as possible. You will be greeted by a panorama of the coast and the “Holy City” of Charleston on the horizon beyond.
One of the most exciting ways to visit the lighthouse is by water. Recently, some friends and I paddled our kayaks from the landing on Folly Creek to enjoy a day of walking the beach on Morris Island and viewing the lighthouse up close. Along the way we enjoyed unparalleled marsh views, countess shorebirds and wildlife in the teeming waters of the creek and dozens of dolphins feeding and playing in the warm Carolina waters.
We were not alone. Dozens of other boaters had also made the passage to enjoy this most unique of South Carolina landmarks up close.
The Morris Island Lighthouse promised to keep a watch on the shores and sea. It ended up rekindling of our hope.
Getting There
The Morris Island Lighthouse is located just two hours from Bluffton near Charleston and Folly Island. The lighthouse itself is now 100 yards off Morris Island and over a half a mile offshore from Folly Island and beach across Lighthouse Inlet. You can walk to the lighthouse. A 20-foot seawall around the base has been built to keep the tower from falling. Climbing the wall is not allowed. The lighthouse is a condemned structure and there is no public access for the public. The lighthouse is best viewed from a distance and against the stunning backdrop of the beach and harbor.
To visit by foot, visit the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve & Beach Access located at 1746 E Ashley Ave., Folly Beach. There is limited parking and a park admission of $1 applies. There are no facilities or restrooms but there is much available in the community nearby. Visit www.ccprc.com/3149/Lighthouse-Inlet-Heritage-Preserve or call 843-795-4386.
To view the light by water or from Morris Island, you will need to travel by boat. For kayaking, you can put in at the landing at the Folly Island bridge. Parking is limited, but access is easy. The five-mile paddle is best for intermediate or advanced kayakers and it is vital to time the tides correctly. It is recommended you engage a local outfitter or guide and many are available on Folly Island and the Charleston area.
For more info on Morris Island Lighthouse and how you can help in its preservation visit www.savethelight.org/.